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  • How to Sew In-Seam Pockets into a Waist Seam (Christine Haynes - Citystitching)

    November 21, 2016 by CityStitching

    dress-2 Like most people, I love having pockets in my garments. Pockets can come in many forms–patch, welt, in-seam, etc–depending on the garment and the style. One of the most common pocket styles to find in dresses and skirts are in-seam pockets. An in-seam pocket is where the pocket is literally sewn into the side seam, so it becomes invisible to see on the outside of the garment, but is right there at the hip whenever you need it. For dresses, typically the in-seam pocket is simply sewn into the garment as part of the side seam. The pocket floats in the seam, flapping around on the inside of the dress. This is the only option if the garment has no horizontal seams across the body. Sometimes this causes the pocket to pull on the side seam, creating drag lines in a drapey fabric, and making a flattering garment anything but.

  • Light Up Phoenix Costume Tutorial

    October 27, 2016 by Britex Fabrics

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    Need a last minute Halloween costume idea? The tutorial for this gorgeous phoenix costume that can be found on Instructables, by Natalina, is a little more of a challenge than some of the other projects we have presented, but it can be created in 15 steps, and the pattern from BurdaStyle is pretty intuitive, with access to a dress form. This is the second Instructable post by Natalina. Natalina is a designer with a degree in fashion design. Most of the items you will need for this project, including feathers and trims can be found on the second and third floor of our brick-and-mortar store. For the how to, visit Instructables here.

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    For the the headpiece tutorial, please visit the other part of this Instructable here.

     


  • Halloween Tutorial: Easy To Create Floating Ghost

    October 21, 2016 by Britex Fabrics

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    Reuse plastic soda bottles and end up with an awesome ghost Halloween decoration at the same time. You only need a few supplies, and you are ready to create this floating ghost. You will need cheese cloth, scissors, fabric stiffener, black felt, and a few other items. For a complete list of supplies and step-by-step instructions, please visit the tutorial on Instructables.

     


  • Transform Yourself Into A Superhero For Halloween

    October 14, 2016 by Britex Fabrics

    superhero-1image: instrucatbles

    Have you ever imagined yourself leaping a building in single bound, flying through a cityscape with a cape, well, with this seven part lesson from Instructables, you may do just that. This tutorial will show you how to transform yourself into a superhero this Halloween. Learn how to create light weight body armor, including a head piece, and how to sew with spandex for a superhero suit. Similar fabrics to the ones used in this tutorial are available in various colors and prints, on the second floor of our brick-and-mortar store.

     


  • Catch-Stitching a Hem (Two Variations) Tutorial

    October 11, 2016 by MsJennyHomeMaker

    jenny-1 Hello again, everyone! This month, I thought I’d share a more daily-wear item.  Wool pencil skirts in various weights are a staple in my wardrobe, nearly year-round.  Some of my favorites are made from double cloth or double serge wool, so when I spotted this cool pale blue wool double-cloth, I knew it would be perfect for a transitional skirt.  When I received it, I saw it had an interesting texture, so I decided to pick a slightly more fun and casual pattern, forgoing my usual Simplicity 2154 for Simplicity 8175. And I’m so glad I did – the fabric paired beautifully and I have a new favorite skirt! jenny-2

  • Satin Party Dress – How to Add Volume to a Skirt (MsJennyHomemaker)

    September 13, 2016 by MsJennyHomeMaker

    Hello! I'm Jenny and I blog at Jenny Homemaker.  I'm so excited to join the team of talented Britex Fabrics guest bloggers and share my first project with you! dress 1 Apparently, I decided to go all out for my first garment, but how could I not after spying Britex's beautiful selection of rayon blend satins?!  This "summer sky" in particular caught my eye immediately, as I'd sketched this dress (Simplicity 1873) in a similar color last year.  By the way, in case you’re curious if it really is as vibrant as the website shows, it is!  I've worked with a lot of light silks recently, but I had volume in mind for this particular dress, and this rayon/cotton satin gives that a bit of a head start.  For a party dress like this, I recommend starting with a fabric with a somewhat stiffer hand than your average satins.  This will give the pleats a great shape. Then, there are a few things you can do for even more "oomph".  Side note: you can use these tricks on softer fabrics as well, just be careful to choose the right weights for your fabric. The first trick for volume, is to underline your satin with petticoat net.  This will add a bit of that petticoat shape, without having to wear an extra garment.  A huge plus for those of us who have hot summers. To underline your satin, cut the net using the same pattern pieces as for your outer fabric.  Then, cut your outer fabric, marking all stitching lines (including pleats, darts, etc) and the fold line for your hem.  Pin the net layer to the wrong side of the satin and hand-baste the two layers together using cotton or silk thread, right along all of the traced lines.  Then, construct the garment as you normally would.  Bonus: if you like to hand-stitch your seam allowances in place, you can do so, stitching them only to the net and you don't have to worry about any stitches showing on the outside.

  • A Different Kind of Shirt By Guest Blogger Jamie (MaleDevonSewing)

    September 7, 2016 by MaleDevonSewing

    As you may know, I love shirts. Not just wearing them but of course making them too. Although shirt styles are all fairly similar (well at least for men) you can always have fun playing with the details: Different collars and cuff shapes, placket styles and of course fun fabric and buttons. So when I was asked to make a shirt for my guest blog post, I jumped at the opportunity. I wanted to do something a little different though; something a bit wild and fun. Over the years I have made countless different shirts but there was one particular style I had yet to make: The Guayabera. You don’t see many over here in the UK but I have always been drawn to the relaxed yet precision aspects of such a shirt: The pleats, pintucks, curved yoke and four pockets were enough for me. The fabric had to make a statement too. It had to be bright with a fun design so what better than a cotton print with pink with little birds!   IMG_2171 I drafted the pattern myself, opting for a normal collar with stand, a triple point curved yoke, pintucked fronts and back with a central double pleat down the spine. Four pocket ‘through’ the pintucks and a cuffed hem. Before cutting the double pleat and two rows of pintucks were added to a piece of fabric that would form the back. The pleat was simple enough but I had to carefully measure the position of the pintucks so they would meet the pointed yoke.   IMG_2179

  • Silk Clover Dress With French Seam Tutorial - By Guest Blogger Christine Haynes

    August 9, 2016 by CityStitching

    silk-dress-1   When Britex offered me some midnight navy spotted silk to sew with, I thought I might make a kimono robe or another lounge item. But when the silk showed up, it was just too gorgeous to only wear at home, so I decided to sew the Clover Dress from Paper Cut Patterns, and it was a perfect match.   When sewing with silk, especially one that is semi-transparent, having gorgeous seams is key since there’s a good chance that they will be visible through the garment. This is when using a French Seam is a perfect choice, and if you don’t know how to sew one, here’s a handy tutorial for you!   french-seam-1   Note: the tutorial is sewn using a scrap piece of the silk, not on the garment itself.   french-seam-2 Step 1: After you have cut all your pieces according to the pattern instructions, the key is sewing them in a reverse order from how they instruct you to sew a regular seam. So instead of right sides together, we will be putting wrong sides together. Pin in place.   french-seam-3 Step 2: Sew the seam at 3/8” seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8”.   french-seam-4 Step 3: Press the seam allowance to one side.   french-seam-5 Step 4: Fold the fabric so right sides are together and the seam sewn in step 1 is right at the top of the fold. Press the seam.   french-seam-6 Step 5: Pin the fabric together and stitch at 1/4” seam allowance. The 1/4” and 3/8” will equal a 5/8” seam allowance. Should your project have a different sized seam allowance, these two amounts added up will need to match the total seam allowance and adjust accordingly.

  • Millinery: How to Make a Decorative Removable Ribbon Hat Band

    July 13, 2016 by Chuleenan of CSews

    How to Make a Decorative Removable Ribbon Hat Band (Part III) For my second hat band, I had two yards of two ribbons: A striped 1.25″ Petersham ribbon and a 5/8″ solid black Petersham to go on top of the striped ribbon, which adds a thick stripe. The extra yard was for the embellishment that covers where the hat band pieces join. (To read about my other hat band, see Part II.) Ribbon 2B   I cut a 25-inch length of the striped and black ribbons for the crown and gently stretched and pressed them. The striped ribbon wasn't as pliable as the black ribbon so I required a little more tugging to get it to curve. Ribbon 15For more information on pressing and stretching Petersham ribbon, see Part II. Next I pinned the solid black Petersham ribbon to the striped ribbon and used a ladder stitch to baste it in place. Ribbon 16 It's called a ladder stitch because the other side looks like a ladder. Ribbon 17 Then I folded over each end of the ribbon twice, about 1/4 inch - just enough so that that the length was a little less than the crown circumference of 23 inches. The elastic would bridge the gap. I machine stitched the ends and then attached a 2-inch piece of wide elastic, securing it with a double row of stitches. one row of stitches follows the stitch line I made from sewing the ends of the ribbons. I used a longer piece than I needed because it makes it easier to sew. Then I just trimmed the excess after it was sewn. Ribbon 18 The elastic looks like this. Ribbon 19

  • Millinery: How to Make a Removable Ribbon Hat Band

    July 12, 2016 by Chuleenan of CSews

    How to Make a Removable Ribbon Hat Band (Millinery Part II) I've had this hat for years and then the hat band began to show some unfortunate discoloration. It turns out the manufacturer used a double-sided adhesive to attach the hat band to the hat. The adhesive became greasy and leaked through the ribbon. A high quality hat would not use adhesive of any kind. I got it because I liked the shape and the small brim. It goes with a lot of my wardrobe. My solution was to remove the old hat band and the adhesive and make a removable replacement hat band. I decided to make two. This is the first one. To see my striped removable hat band using two ribbons, see Part III.   Ribbon 1 My first step was to choose my Petersham ribbon. Petersham is a type of ribbon that has little notches on the edges that enables it to go around a curve. It has some flexibility to it, which lets you manipulate it so it can go around a curve and lay flat against the crown of the hat (the part that covers the head). Britex has a huge selection of Petersham in solid colors and even striped Petersham, which isn't as common as the solids. Here’s the ribbon I selected for the first hat band: A solid gray, 1.5 inch width Ribbon 2A First I measured the crown of the hat at the widest part - about 23 inches there. Make sure your tape measure is at the same level around the widest part of the crown, where the ribbon will go. I moved it slightly up so you could see the measurement. Cut a length of ribbon the circumference of the crown plus two inches. You won't need more than an inch or so extra but you can always trim the excess. I like to have a little extra for safety. Ribbon 3 When you put the ribbon around the crown, it won't lay flat because the crown is wider at the bottom. You will have a slight gap at the top of the ribbon, like this photo. Ribbon 4 To make your ribbon lie flat, you gently stretch the bottom edge of the ribbon as you press it with your steam iron. Start at the center and pull it to one side and then repeat on the other side in the opposite direction. You just want it to be slightly wider at the bottom, about 1/8 inch on each side of the ribbon. Don't forget to use a press cloth to protect the ribbon. If you don't it could get shiny. I used a scrap of organza as my press cloth. Ribbon 5 Now the ribbon will lay flat against the crown because of the slight stretch you gave it. Ribbon 6

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