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Information and tutorials for folks interested in antique Italian lacework, nouveau fashion, sewing techniques and much much more!

Millinery: How to Make a Removable Ribbon Hat Band

How to Make a Removable Ribbon Hat Band (Millinery Part II)

I’ve had this hat for years and then the hat band began to show some unfortunate discoloration. It turns out the manufacturer used a double-sided adhesive to attach the hat band to the hat. The adhesive became greasy and leaked through the ribbon. A high quality hat would not use adhesive of any kind. I got it because I liked the shape and the small brim. It goes with a lot of my wardrobe. My solution was to remove the old hat band and the adhesive and make a removable replacement hat band. I decided to make two. This is the first one. To see my striped removable hat band using two ribbons, see Part III.

 

Ribbon 1

My first step was to choose my Petersham ribbon. Petersham is a type of ribbon that has little notches on the edges that enables it to go around a curve. It has some flexibility to it, which lets you manipulate it so it can go around a curve and lay flat against the crown of the hat (the part that covers the head).

Britex has a huge selection of Petersham in solid colors and even striped Petersham, which isn’t as common as the solids. Here’s the ribbon I selected for the first hat band: A solid gray, 1.5 inch width

Ribbon 2A

First I measured the crown of the hat at the widest part – about 23 inches there. Make sure your tape measure is at the same level around the widest part of the crown, where the ribbon will go. I moved it slightly up so you could see the measurement. Cut a length of ribbon the circumference of the crown plus two inches. You won’t need more than an inch or so extra but you can always trim the excess. I like to have a little extra for safety.

Ribbon 3

When you put the ribbon around the crown, it won’t lay flat because the crown is wider at the bottom. You will have a slight gap at the top of the ribbon, like this photo.

Ribbon 4

To make your ribbon lie flat, you gently stretch the bottom edge of the ribbon as you press it with your steam iron. Start at the center and pull it to one side and then repeat on the other side in the opposite direction. You just want it to be slightly wider at the bottom, about 1/8 inch on each side of the ribbon. Don’t forget to use a press cloth to protect the ribbon. If you don’t it could get shiny. I used a scrap of organza as my press cloth.

Ribbon 5

Now the ribbon will lay flat against the crown because of the slight stretch you gave it.

Ribbon 6

Click here to read more »

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Posted: Guest Blogger, Hand-Made with Britex Materials, Tutorial
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Millinery: Making a Lace Hat

Part I: Making a lace hat

The first part of this tutorial is about making a lace hat using milliner Patricia Underwood’s Vogue pattern (V8891). I made version D – a small-brimmed hat – and trimmed it with Petersham ribbon.

Hat 1The materials
(Available at britexfabrics.com and / or at the Britex Fabrics brick-and-mortar store in San Francisco)

Hat 2

The lace, tulle and millinery wire can all be purchased at Britex Fabrics. I chose a navy lace because it’s versatile and can go with a dress or jeans. But this lace has some stretch to it and the tulle has no stretch, which is not ideal but I didn’t really have any problems sewing them together. The tulle is a contrasting color so you can see the lace. If you get a matching color, the lace will just blend in and you won’t see the design of the lace.

I’ll be using a couple of hat terms: 1. The crown, the part of a hat that covers the head. 2. The brim, which attaches to the crown. Brims can be small like the version D or wide, such as version E of this pattern. The millinery wire is inserted in the edge of the brim and that’s what makes it stand out from the crown.

There are only three pattern pieces for this hat – two pieces make up the crown and then there’s the brim. The tulle is the lining and interfacing for this hat. Because tulle is semi-transparent and not very stiff, the pattern has you cut each two of each pattern piece. I traced size L rather than cutting out the pattern pieces. This means that if I want to make a hat for a friend with a smaller head, I can trace that size from the original pattern pieces.

You can use pins or pattern weights to hold the pattern pieces in place. This is a synthetic lace so I wasn’t worried about the pins damaging the lace. If you use a delicate lace, you probably want to use pattern weights.

I used scissors to cut this piece because I have more control on the curve.

 

Hat 3

And here’s the side of the crown – cut on the fold.

Hat 4

The brim is also cut on the fold. I used pattern weights on these two pieces and cut them with my rotary cutter. The curve of these pattern pieces is easier to handle with a rotary cutter. You can use scissors or a rotary cutter to cut lace; it all depends on your personal preference and what you need to cut.
Hat 5

I cut two pieces of the three pattern pieces from the tulle. For the crown, one piece of tulle acts as the interfacing and the other is the lining. The brim uses both pieces of tulle on the inside.

Warning: There’s a LOT of pinning and basting for this pattern. You pin the tulle pattern piece to the lace piece for the crown (top and side) and baste them together before you sew. You pin and baste each pattern piece together. I used a safety pin to mark the center front of the crown. The seam is in the center back.

I used a universal Schmetz needle 70/10 and a stitch length of 2. I didn’t have any experience machine sewing lace – only hand sewing it – but this was easy to sew. I didn’t use a special needle and it was fine.

 

Hat 6

I won’t go into every step because you can just follow the pattern instructions. But there was one part that was tricky to figure out, even with the instructions. After you’ve stitched the crown together and sewn the tulle lining (steps 1-8), you pin the lining of the crown to the lace crown wrong sides together. It looks like this.

Hat 7

The you turn it right side out and you’re ready to attach the brim.

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Posted: Guest Blogger, Hand-Made with Britex Materials, Projects, Sewing, Tutorial
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Tips to Increase Your Sewing Speed

Orange Lingerie tips

Want to increase your sewing speed? Here is one of the easiest ways to accomplish this. Check out this awesome post by one of our guest bloggers.

“The time it takes to sew a project is largely the sum of the time it takes to complete each task. The time it takes to complete each task is primarily driven by body motion, so the more motions that are required, the more time it takes to complete a project. What all this means is that the key to decreasing the overall time to complete a project is to decrease the necessary motions.” – Orange Lingerie

Posted: Sewing, Sewing Techniques, Tutorial
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20% Off All Online Linen Category Fabric 7/12 – 7/25

LINEN online July 12 July 25
We adore linen for its beautiful natural texture, breathability, and classic good looks. Made from the fibers of the flax plant, linen is one of the oldest known textiles. Britex is pleased to offer you a unique collection of linen fabric, including amazing Irish linen. Equally wonderful for home decorating use and garments, we love linen fabric for elegant duvet covers, comfy lounge pillows, tailored curtains, louche summer suits, chic dresses, and delicately pleated skirts.

Quantities are limited, so order your swatches today! This sale good for online linen fabric category purchases* only 7/12 – 7/25.

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Ethereal Liquid Silicone Gown by Iris van Herpen

Herpen

We’re enamored of these elegant, ethereal gowns designed by visionary Dutch fashion designer, Iris van Herpen; they are unabashedly unworldly in their beauty. Watch this video in Refinery 29 of how Iris utilizes 3-D printing and materials manipulation to construct amazing garments that feel as “organic and natural as dew, bones, and lightning.”

Posted: Fashion Tips
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Online Novelty Fabric Sale 20% Off Now – 7/11

NOVELTY SALE BLOG POST

Our novelty fabrics often have a beautiful metallic shine which helps them stand out in the crowd! Made of wool, silk, cotton, metallic, nylon, and more, these texturally rich fabrics make beautiful garments. Tweed, chenille, scuba knits, and bouclé novelty fabrics delight us with their contrast of nubby texture and soft hand. Make a swinging bolero jacket, a long mysterious cape, a Chanel-style jacket, or a tailored vest…..in order to add elegance and style to any solid, understated little black outfit. Many of our textured novelty fabrics are blends, lending them a wonderful pliability and sheen.

Quantities are limited, so order your swatches today! This sale good for online fashion novelty fabric categories purchases* only Now – 7/11.
*This online sale does not apply to in-store, email, phone, or Customized Swatch purchases.”

 

Posted: Britex Announcements & Sales, Fabrics
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New Workshops Coming Soon: Hand Sewing 101 & Hand Sewing For Mending and Repair

Hands for blog

Hand Sewing 101 (coming soon)

Learn basic hand sewing techniques to banish your fears of stitching by hand. This beginner-level class will cover the essentials, from tools and materials to all the most common sewing stitches. No previous sewing experience required.

Hand Sewing for Mending & Repair (coming soon)
Rescue worn clothing with simple hand mending techniques. This class will cover basic hand-sewn repairs for tears, holes, and frayed fabrics. Students are expected to know basic hand-sewing techniques.before taking this class.

Keep up with our upcoming events to reserve your space in our workshops.

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50% Off Summer Swimwear Sale (In-Store Only)

SUMMER SWIMWEAR SALE for BLOG

Celebrate Summer and Take 50% Off All Nylon Lycra Fabrics & All Elastic Trims By the Yard!

Our Summer Swimwear Sale includes 50% off all all lycra fabrics, including solids and prints, as well as all of our amazing elastic trims by the yard!

IN-STORE ONLY!

Tuesday, July 5 – Tuesday, July 12

*In-store sale is limited to stock on floor. No mail orders, email. phone, or special orders.
Minimum fabric cut is 1/2 yard.

Britex Fabrics
146 Geary Street
San Francisco, CA. 94108

Store Hours
Monday – Saturday
10am – 6pm

CLOSED MONDAY JULY 4th

Posted: Britex Announcements & Sales, Britex Fabric Store
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We Love Our Customers

JOan Burgren

Today our customer Joan Burgren stopped by wearing an awesome dress that she created with some of our gorgeous cotton fabric. Joan lives locally in Menlo Park and has been sewing for three years. She drafts her own patterns, including the pattern for the dress she is wearing here. She sews for herself, for fun.

Posted: Hand-Made with Britex Materials, Made by our Customers
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Insertion Lace on a Curved Seam – Guest Blogger Nicole

IMG_4854

I’m so excited to share my method for inserting lace into a curved seam (such as a princess seam).  For my blouse, I used this dusty peach handkerchief-weight linen and floral ivory insertion lace, though there are many, many options for both linens and laces, both online and in-store!

After seeing one of the cover shots for the Hayden pattern, and making a couple myself (two versions here), I really wanted to insert lace in the seam lines on the front and along the hem.  The style lines are curved, though, so the typical way of inserting lace had to be tweaked a bit.

 

IMG_4875

Usually, insertion lace is applied on an uncut, unseamed piece of fabric.  The general steps are: sew along both lengths of the insertion lace, then cut through the fabric on the wrong side and press the fabric open.  On the right side, using a narrow zig-zag stitch, sew along the edge of the lace again (which catches the fabric on the wrong side) and the trim the fabric on the wrong side, close to the stitches.  Insertion lace can also be inserted into an existing seam, before sewing the seam and after taking into consideration the added width of the lace.

 

IMG_4870

However, for this blouse, the seam in which I wanted to put the lace was a curved princess seam along the front.  Instead of inserting the lace before sewing the seam, I did it a bit differently:

Click here to read more »

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