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  • Red Plaid Wool Jacket with Scarf by Guest Blogger Shams (Communing With Fabric)

    December 5, 2016 by Communing with Fabric

    img_4041-red-wool-plaid Hey! It's Shams from Communing with Fabric with another project made from a fabulous Britex fabric! For this project, my assignment was to choose one of Britex's beautiful wools. I visited the store just a couple days before I left for Europe to make my choice. After much deliberation, I selected Mock Patchwork Plaid Wool.

  • How to Sew In-Seam Pockets into a Waist Seam (Christine Haynes - Citystitching)

    November 21, 2016 by CityStitching

    dress-2 Like most people, I love having pockets in my garments. Pockets can come in many forms–patch, welt, in-seam, etc–depending on the garment and the style. One of the most common pocket styles to find in dresses and skirts are in-seam pockets. An in-seam pocket is where the pocket is literally sewn into the side seam, so it becomes invisible to see on the outside of the garment, but is right there at the hip whenever you need it. For dresses, typically the in-seam pocket is simply sewn into the garment as part of the side seam. The pocket floats in the seam, flapping around on the inside of the dress. This is the only option if the garment has no horizontal seams across the body. Sometimes this causes the pocket to pull on the side seam, creating drag lines in a drapey fabric, and making a flattering garment anything but.

  • Rolled Seam Tutorial With New Guest Blogger Nanna From Denmark (HowToDoFashion)

    November 8, 2016 by howtodofashion

    6

    A while back Britex asked me if I would be a Guest Blogger. One of the difficult tasks of this assignment was to choose the fabric. I decided to work with a fabric that I think many people may be afraid to work with, chiffon. I love this blue chiffon fashion novelty fabric, it is light, and with the right sewing techniques, this fabric can turn into the most magical garment. The two techniques I always use when sewing with chiffon is a French seam and a rolled seam for hemming. In this post, I will show you how to make a rolled seam on your sewing machine.


  • Tips For Sewing With Silk

    October 25, 2016 by MissCrayolaCreepy

    miss-crayola-creepy-britex-named-asaka-kimono-7 Have you ever been afraid of sewing with a fabric for absolutely no reason? I was terrified of sewing with silk chiffon because I had heard that it was difficult to sew. Unfortunately, my fear of sewing with silk definitely outweighed by love of wearing it. Well, until I made this lovely Named Asaka Kimono top, that is. If I wanted this fabric/pattern combo to work I would need to immediately take a chill pill and get over my silly little fear. pattern

  • Catch-Stitching a Hem (Two Variations) Tutorial

    October 11, 2016 by MsJennyHomeMaker

    jenny-1 Hello again, everyone! This month, I thought I’d share a more daily-wear item.  Wool pencil skirts in various weights are a staple in my wardrobe, nearly year-round.  Some of my favorites are made from double cloth or double serge wool, so when I spotted this cool pale blue wool double-cloth, I knew it would be perfect for a transitional skirt.  When I received it, I saw it had an interesting texture, so I decided to pick a slightly more fun and casual pattern, forgoing my usual Simplicity 2154 for Simplicity 8175. And I’m so glad I did – the fabric paired beautifully and I have a new favorite skirt! jenny-2

  • Satin Party Dress – How to Add Volume to a Skirt (MsJennyHomemaker)

    September 13, 2016 by MsJennyHomeMaker

    Hello! I'm Jenny and I blog at Jenny Homemaker.  I'm so excited to join the team of talented Britex Fabrics guest bloggers and share my first project with you! dress 1 Apparently, I decided to go all out for my first garment, but how could I not after spying Britex's beautiful selection of rayon blend satins?!  This "summer sky" in particular caught my eye immediately, as I'd sketched this dress (Simplicity 1873) in a similar color last year.  By the way, in case you’re curious if it really is as vibrant as the website shows, it is!  I've worked with a lot of light silks recently, but I had volume in mind for this particular dress, and this rayon/cotton satin gives that a bit of a head start.  For a party dress like this, I recommend starting with a fabric with a somewhat stiffer hand than your average satins.  This will give the pleats a great shape. Then, there are a few things you can do for even more "oomph".  Side note: you can use these tricks on softer fabrics as well, just be careful to choose the right weights for your fabric. The first trick for volume, is to underline your satin with petticoat net.  This will add a bit of that petticoat shape, without having to wear an extra garment.  A huge plus for those of us who have hot summers. To underline your satin, cut the net using the same pattern pieces as for your outer fabric.  Then, cut your outer fabric, marking all stitching lines (including pleats, darts, etc) and the fold line for your hem.  Pin the net layer to the wrong side of the satin and hand-baste the two layers together using cotton or silk thread, right along all of the traced lines.  Then, construct the garment as you normally would.  Bonus: if you like to hand-stitch your seam allowances in place, you can do so, stitching them only to the net and you don't have to worry about any stitches showing on the outside.

  • A Different Kind of Shirt By Guest Blogger Jamie (MaleDevonSewing)

    September 7, 2016 by MaleDevonSewing

    As you may know, I love shirts. Not just wearing them but of course making them too. Although shirt styles are all fairly similar (well at least for men) you can always have fun playing with the details: Different collars and cuff shapes, placket styles and of course fun fabric and buttons. So when I was asked to make a shirt for my guest blog post, I jumped at the opportunity. I wanted to do something a little different though; something a bit wild and fun. Over the years I have made countless different shirts but there was one particular style I had yet to make: The Guayabera. You don’t see many over here in the UK but I have always been drawn to the relaxed yet precision aspects of such a shirt: The pleats, pintucks, curved yoke and four pockets were enough for me. The fabric had to make a statement too. It had to be bright with a fun design so what better than a cotton print with pink with little birds!   IMG_2171 I drafted the pattern myself, opting for a normal collar with stand, a triple point curved yoke, pintucked fronts and back with a central double pleat down the spine. Four pocket ‘through’ the pintucks and a cuffed hem. Before cutting the double pleat and two rows of pintucks were added to a piece of fabric that would form the back. The pleat was simple enough but I had to carefully measure the position of the pintucks so they would meet the pointed yoke.   IMG_2179

  • Silk Clover Dress With French Seam Tutorial - By Guest Blogger Christine Haynes

    August 9, 2016 by CityStitching

    silk-dress-1   When Britex offered me some midnight navy spotted silk to sew with, I thought I might make a kimono robe or another lounge item. But when the silk showed up, it was just too gorgeous to only wear at home, so I decided to sew the Clover Dress from Paper Cut Patterns, and it was a perfect match.   When sewing with silk, especially one that is semi-transparent, having gorgeous seams is key since there’s a good chance that they will be visible through the garment. This is when using a French Seam is a perfect choice, and if you don’t know how to sew one, here’s a handy tutorial for you!   french-seam-1   Note: the tutorial is sewn using a scrap piece of the silk, not on the garment itself.   french-seam-2 Step 1: After you have cut all your pieces according to the pattern instructions, the key is sewing them in a reverse order from how they instruct you to sew a regular seam. So instead of right sides together, we will be putting wrong sides together. Pin in place.   french-seam-3 Step 2: Sew the seam at 3/8” seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance down to 1/8”.   french-seam-4 Step 3: Press the seam allowance to one side.   french-seam-5 Step 4: Fold the fabric so right sides are together and the seam sewn in step 1 is right at the top of the fold. Press the seam.   french-seam-6 Step 5: Pin the fabric together and stitch at 1/4” seam allowance. The 1/4” and 3/8” will equal a 5/8” seam allowance. Should your project have a different sized seam allowance, these two amounts added up will need to match the total seam allowance and adjust accordingly.

  • Reversible 7-Gore Skirt

    July 18, 2016 by Communing with Fabric

    Capture1
      Hey! It's Shams of Communing with Fabric with another garment made from a beautiful Britex fabric! For this project, my assignment was to choose a fabric from the Knits category. I quickly settled on this beautiful double-sided ponte made from cotton, polyester, and lycra.
    Reversible Black and Cardinal Red Cotton Blend Knit Fabric Click the image to see this fabric on the Britex site. It's also available in sky blue (Note that some of the photos show this fabric as a bright red, but it's actually a heathered red in real life)
     
    This fabric is wonderful! It has more drape than some of its stiffer ponte cousins. It feels like a rayon and I was surprised to learn that it contains cotton, but no rayon. It is beefy, so it hangs nicely, but it's also a bit "sproingy". It presses beautifully. I threw it into the washer and dryer before cutting and it looked just the same afterwards. I didn't measure to determine the amount of shrinkage, but I suspect that it shrank a bit. Because it's a double knit, it's very easy to sew. If you are afraid of sewing knits, a ponte (double knit) fabric is a good way to get started. It doesn't curl at the edges due to it's double-sided construction. This ponte stretches in both directions, but it's also fairly stable. I wanted to feature both sides of the fabric and I seriously dithered about how to use it. I was torn between a top and a skirt and I knew exactly how I wanted to make each but, in the end, the skirt won out. I drafted a 7-gore skirt. Why 7 gores? I find the asymmetry of an uneven number of gores aesthetically pleasing. In order to use both sides of the fabric, I drafted the pattern with 1" seam allowances and a 1" hem. The only exception was the waist seam, which has a 1/2" seam allowance. I sewed the 1" seams with the black side facing the black side. I decided to funk it up by constructing it in a car wash style so I sewed each gore 15" down from the waist, and left the rest of the seam unsewn. I turned each seam allowance and hem segment to the red side and folded it under, turning the 1" seam allowance into a 1/2" trim. I secured each seam allowance, individually, to the red side by hand. You could do this by machine, but I like the effect of hand sewing—I have more control.
    IMG_20160716_090826-7-gore-skirt
      As part of this process, I mitered all 14 corners at the hemline. Mitering is important to manage the bulk that would result if you merely turned up the trim on each edge.
    IMG_3344-7-gore-skirt
      An advantage of such a clean finish is that the skirt is fully reversible! The red side features black trim, and the black side is solid black.
    IMG_3390-7-gore-skirt
     
    It might be summer elsewhere, but when I took these pics this morning it was 50°F, windy, foggy, wet, drippy, and misty. In short, it was COLD and more like winter weather than summer weather!
    IMG_3353-7-gore-skirt IMG_3377-7-gore-skirt
    I didn't include a pic of the waistband, and I never tuck a top, but I attached a casing for elastic using the black side of the fabric. Because of the car wash effect, both sides flash the reverse color as I move. This skirt is a lot of fun to wear!

  • Millinery: How to Make a Decorative Removable Ribbon Hat Band

    July 13, 2016 by Chuleenan of CSews

    How to Make a Decorative Removable Ribbon Hat Band (Part III) For my second hat band, I had two yards of two ribbons: A striped 1.25″ Petersham ribbon and a 5/8″ solid black Petersham to go on top of the striped ribbon, which adds a thick stripe. The extra yard was for the embellishment that covers where the hat band pieces join. (To read about my other hat band, see Part II.) Ribbon 2B   I cut a 25-inch length of the striped and black ribbons for the crown and gently stretched and pressed them. The striped ribbon wasn't as pliable as the black ribbon so I required a little more tugging to get it to curve. Ribbon 15For more information on pressing and stretching Petersham ribbon, see Part II. Next I pinned the solid black Petersham ribbon to the striped ribbon and used a ladder stitch to baste it in place. Ribbon 16 It's called a ladder stitch because the other side looks like a ladder. Ribbon 17 Then I folded over each end of the ribbon twice, about 1/4 inch - just enough so that that the length was a little less than the crown circumference of 23 inches. The elastic would bridge the gap. I machine stitched the ends and then attached a 2-inch piece of wide elastic, securing it with a double row of stitches. one row of stitches follows the stitch line I made from sewing the ends of the ribbons. I used a longer piece than I needed because it makes it easier to sew. Then I just trimmed the excess after it was sewn. Ribbon 18 The elastic looks like this. Ribbon 19

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