As soon as I saw this colorful fabric, I thought to myself, "Pilvi Coat!" A simple design is great for a large print because you can show off the print to full advantage. That's what I like this pattern from the sewing book Lotta Jansdotter Everyday Style. Plus the coat has pockets! I had fun using colorful fabric scraps for my pockets.
I love the colorful painterly design of this home dec fabric, which is a digital print from Spain. It had been marked down to $20/yard because the manufacturer forgot to put a selvage on one side of the fabric.
Now this beautiful fabric is part of the ongoing Yard Sale at Britex Fabrics, which means you can take an additional 40 to 60% off. So you can get it for $12/yard or less, which is a great. There's limited stock and it's going fast.
The painterly design inspired me to wear my vintage Kangol beret (label on the inside and no kangaroo) and take photos next to this striking mural. The hand is holding a paintbrush, which seems appropriate. You can't see the brush in these photos because it's several feet above my head. I love how this pattern shows off the fabric.
The Pilvi Coat has raglan sleeves and just a few pattern pieces - front, back, sleeves, pockets, and facings for the back and shoulder. There are no darts. The front facing is part of front pattern piece. You just fold it back and attach it to the shoulder facing. You can see it in this photo. My hand is on the front facing.
I debated whether or not to use interfacing for the facing. The fabric is home dec weight but it does have a nice drape so I decided to use some lightweight woven interfacing in my stash. I probably didn't need it but it does ensure that the front corners don't flop down.
Home dec fabric can fray and this fabric certainly did. So I had to take care to finish all the seams. I used three different techniques due to time constraints and aesthetics. This is an unlined coat so for the seams that would most likely to be seen when taking the coat off (or putting it on), I decided to finish with bias tape. I used this technique for the facing and the hems (sleeves and bottom).
I used bias tape in my stash – premade Wright's bias tape in royal blue and a vintage bias tape in a tiny floral print, plus some striped silk bias tape the I made, which was leftover from a past coat I made. You can see the striped bias tape in the hem.
It's fun to use leftover bias tape in a project! What's great about using bias tape is that the fold is your guide. You line up the raw edge of your fabric with the bias tape and sew. Then you fold the bias tape over the raw edge, press and stitch in the ditch.
I serged the side seams and sleeves. For this pattern, you sew the sleeves, pockets and side seams in one long seam. Here's the side seam and the hem bound with bias tape.
If I had more time, I would have bound the side seams, which would have looked nicer but I didn't have enough bias tape on hand and I didn't have the time to do that.
The third finishing technique I used was a triple zigzag stitch to finish the seams attaching the sleeves to the front and back as well as on the pockets. You can see the zig zag here.
The book instructs you to topstitch the hem and facing but I decided I didn't want a seam on this lovely fabric. So I hand stitched the facing and hem in place. It took a couple of hours to get that done because I used tiny stitches, catching one or two threads of my fabric and then the edge of the bias tape. It's a bit hard to see in this photo.
It was a bit tedious but it was worth it. Here's a close-up of the finished (and invisible!) hand stitching.
I made size XL for this coat. I have broad shoulders and a small bust. If you have a full bust, you will likely need to make some pattern adjustments or the coat may not drape very well.
If you make something from Yard Sale fabric and share it on Instagram by Nov. 20 using the hashtag #yardsalefabricmagic and tag @britexfabrics, you could win a big of fantastic fabrics and notions.
To see more of Chuleenan's amazing work, visit her at csews.com!