I’ve been busy designing jumpsuits this month, including a style with a drawstring waist in embroidered Japanese cotton. For my latest edition of Fashion Travelogue, I selected two beautiful fabrics from the Britex linen category for a bolder jumpsuit look - a colorblock palazzo pant style with short kimono sleeves. For the yoke and necktie, I chose a lightweight linen that is a cross between hunter green and teal green. And for the volume-heavy part of the garment, I selected a midweight linen that is a lovely mix of warm copper and terracotta tones. The width on both of these fabrics is quite generous (58”-59” wide), perfect for wide leg pants.
I’ve worked with this earthy color combination before, including my Colorblock Wool Cross Front Dress design from a few years ago, and decided to revisit this duo again for spring.
Photo credit: Sarah Deragon
Linen is a great option for warmer months and has a nice, natural luster to it. It is also known to wrinkle quite easily. I kept this in mind while designing my garment, making sure to use fusible knitted tricot interfacing for the collar band and necktie to keep these pieces crisp. I also made sure to press my fabric before cutting out my pattern pieces. As for the pants, I felt that the natural creasing properties of the linen added to the natural flow of the intended blousey, boxy design. For this look, I was inspired by a variety of sources, including 1940s high-waisted wide leg women’s trousers, a silhouette which reemerged in the late 1960s/early 1970s as palazzo pants. I was also loosely inspired by the hakama trousers worn by samurai, as well as the silhouette of hanbok, which is traditional Korean dress.
Photos from my visit last winter to the Portland Art Museum for the samurai exhibition; (Right) Hakama trousers from 18th century Japan - divided trousers worn under armor for ceremonial occasions
For finishing techniques, I included an elastic waistband casing, invisible center back zip, and practical inseam pockets. I also sewed a thick 2” blind hem stitch for a more tailored look.
I wore my new garment this past weekend and I have to say, it is quite comfy, breathable, and billows nicely in the wind. Some other linen garments I plan on making this summer include a lowered-waist shirt dress with small wood buttons and a relaxed midi-length dress. Visit my blog to view more photos of this jumpsuit project.