Have you ever used a commercial pattern and been frustrated by unwieldy armhole fit; a too loose fit can cause the entire bodice to fit badly. Marina of the couture sewing blog, Frabjous: Couture presents some tips on armhole depth. She says, “I wanted to focus on sleeve fitting, and the correct armhole shape and size is very important.” For additional instruction, Marina recommends this article from Threads magazine by Sarah. My personal armhole fitting tip has been to use a modified princess seam with the front bodice. This works wonders in closing armhole gape when fitting waistcoats; the bodice will be cut in two pieces…a front piece and a side panel. The fitting seam starts at the lower armhole and ends at the hem, approximately 6” from the side seam. This modified princess seam corrects unseemly gaping and ensures a smooth fit.
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