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I’ve been busy designing jumpsuits this month, including a style with a drawstring waist in embroidered Japanese cotton. For my latest edition of Fashion Travelogue, I selected two beautiful fabrics from the Britex linen category for a bolder jumpsuit look – a colorblock palazzo pant style with short kimono sleeves. For the yoke and necktie, I chose a lightweight linen that is a cross between hunter green and teal green. And for the volume-heavy part of the garment, I selected a midweight linen that is a lovely mix of warm copper and terracotta tones. The width on both of these fabrics is quite generous (58”-59” wide), perfect for wide leg pants.

 

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I’ve worked with this earthy color combination before, including my Colorblock Wool Cross Front Dress design from a few years ago, and decided to revisit this duo again for spring.

 

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Photo credit: Sarah Deragon

 

Linen is a great option for warmer months and has a nice, natural luster to it. It is also known to wrinkle quite easily. I kept this in mind while designing my garment, making sure to use fusible knitted tricot interfacing for the collar band and necktie to keep these pieces crisp. I also made sure to press my fabric before cutting out my pattern pieces. As for the pants, I felt that the natural creasing properties of the linen added to the natural flow of the intended blousey, boxy design. For this look, I was inspired by a variety of sources, including 1940s high-waisted wide leg women’s trousers, a silhouette which reemerged in the late 1960s/early 1970s as palazzo pants. I was also loosely inspired by the hakama trousers worn by samurai, as well as the silhouette of hanbok, which is traditional Korean dress.

 

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Photos from my visit last winter to the Portland Art Museum for the samurai exhibition; (Right) Hakama trousers from 18th century Japan – divided trousers worn under armor for ceremonial occasions

 

For finishing techniques, I included an elastic waistband casing, invisible center back zip, and practical inseam pockets. I also sewed a thick 2” blind hem stitch for a more tailored look.

 

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I wore my new garment this past weekend and I have to say, it is quite comfy, breathable, and billows nicely in the wind. Some other linen garments I plan on making this summer include a lowered-waist shirt dress with small wood buttons and a relaxed midi-length dress. Visit my blog to view more photos of this jumpsuit project.